Jungle


Lloyd kwam ons ophalen. Hij leek haast te hebben, want hij griste onze bagage en weg was hij. Op de parkeerplaats stond een busje waar hij onze tassen achterin aan het proppen was. Toen we wegreden mompelde hij iets over mensen op de highway. Wellicht waren dat een paar toeristen die hoorden bij de koffers achter in de bus die we moesten ophalen. Toen we eenmaal de parkeerplaats opreden van een Chinees warenhuis aan de highway, stond daar familie ‘Wij-gaan-ook-mee’. Opa, oma, kleindochter, moeder, schoonzoon, een buurman en 2 neven. Verder nog 3 verhuisdozen aan spullen en 100 kilo rijst in zakken. 40 minuten later zat alles in de bus en wij ook. Onze knieën geparkeerd in de rugleuning voor ons, ons stuitje ontspannen tegen het ijzeren frame van de opklapstoeltjes. De highway is in niets wat je zou vermoeden bij de naam. Het is een 1-baans asfaltweg vol met kuilen, drempels, verzakkingen en wegopbrekingen die van noord naar zuid Suriname loopt. De maximale snelheid is 60 km/h maar iedereen doet zijn best om minimaal het dubbele aan te tikken op de stukken asfalt tussen de obstakels. Vol bepakt en bij elkaar op schoot, slalommen we met z’n elven tussen de vrachtwagens met immense boomstammen door. De familie ‘Wij-gaan-ook-mee’ schreeuwt hysterisch naar elkaar door de bus om boven het lawaai van de openstaande ramen uit te komen. Opa voorin tuft steeds uit het voorste raam zodat het achterin de bus weer naar binnen waait en mijn buurman schreeuwt om de 10 seconden ‘hallo’ in zijn telefoon om te horen of hij nu wel bereik heeft. Na een half uur ligt de complete familie op apegapen. Daan en ik zitten rechtop, verstijfd van de moeilijke zit en spanning. Nog dik 2 uur te gaan…
Op het heetst van de dag arriveren we in Atjoni, een dorpje aan het begin van het Brokopondo stuwmeer. Hier wordt alles en iedereen overgeladen in lange, smalle korjalen.


Korjaal

Als wij ons uit de bus vouwen, dirigeert schipper Harold, die blijkbaar van onze komst weet, ons naar de juiste boot. Vol gas scheren we in de uitgeholde boomstam de jungle in. Bij ieder dorpje stappen een paar mensen uit vergezeld van dozen en tassen vol met boodschappen uit de stad. Daar bedoelt men Paramaribo mee, maar niemand spreekt dit uit. De stad roept een ambivalent gevoel op. De stad is noodzakelijk omdat daar de meeste goederen en spullen vandaan komen die iedereen nodig heeft voor levensonderhoud, waar familie woont en de scholen en universiteit zitten. Het is echter ook het epicentrum van de regering en al het kwaad wat daarmee gepaard gaat.
Na een uurtje varen stopt de boot midden op de rivier. Iedereen praat vrolijk verder. De temperatuur loopt echter flink op zo midden in de zon. Als we steeds harder terug achteruit de rivier afvaren, roep ik de hulp van Harold maar weer in. Op mijn vraag wat er aan de hand is, antwoordt Harold: ‘Benzine op’. Nog steeds is niemand onder de indruk, laat staan in paniek. Na een kwartier komt er een andere Moto Boti langszij varen en worden we naar Jaw Jaw gesleept.


Jaw Jaw aan de Suriname rivier

Jaw Jaw is een klein dorpje aan de rivier bevolkt door Marrons. Dit zijn afstammelingen van de slaven die de erbarmelijke omstandigheden van de plantages zijn ontvlucht (marron is frans voor weglopen). Zij vestigden zich diep in de jungle na een lange reis te voet door Suriname, vaak achtervolgd door Surinaamse inheemsen die door de Hollanders betaald werden om de slaven terug te brengen naar de plantages. We worden opgevangen door Bele.


Bele

Bele heeft 20 jaar in Nederland gewoond, maar heeft sinds een paar jaar het huisje van zijn oma geërfd. Daar omheen heeft hij een paar hutjes gebouwd die hij verhuurt. Meteen valt de rust op. Rust die Bele uitstraalt, maar ook de rust van het dorpse leven. Het merendeel van de inwoners van het dorp zijn kinderen en die omringen ons dan ook dag en
nacht. We voetballen, tekenen, schommelen, zwemmen in de rivier en lopen rondjes door het dorp.


Zwemmen in de Suriname rivier

Als de avond valt, klinkt er applaus in het hele dorp als het licht aangaat. Vandaag is er brandstof gebracht voor het aggregaat, waardoor in ieder geval de komende 2 weken elektriciteit gegarandeerd is van zes tot tien uur ‘s avonds. Bele neemt ons mee op kaaimannenjacht, piranha’s vissen en stuurt ons de jungle in. Tijdens de jungle wandeling wordt de dubieuze rol van de regering duidelijk. Deze heeft China en India de rechten verkocht om bomen in dit Amazone gebied te mogen kappen. Hierbij wordt nauwelijks rekening gehouden met de dorpen in het gebied. Rigoureus worden honderd jaar oude bomen ontnomen en komt er niets voor in de plaats. Het geld dat met de ontginning wordt verdiend, blijft plakken in de villawijk van de stad, Paramaribo Noord.

Na een paar dagen weten alle inwoners wel dat die rare bakra’s in het dorp bij Bele horen en worden we enthousiast opgenomen. Bele kan uren vertellen, en doet dat dan ook, over de rol van de vrouw als spil in de familie, de combinatie van het Rooms-katholieke geloof en voodoo en de eetbare en niet eetbare vruchten in bomen en struiken. Tot diep in de avond discussiëren we of 24/7 elektriciteit leidt tot 24/7 tv kijken. En of het doortrekken van de snelweg de jungle in leidt tot het importeren van allerhande stadse problemen. Zoals het goede discussies betaamt, zijn we er niet helemaal uitgekomen. Wat wel gelukt is, is slapen. Ik kan wel zeggen dat ik sinds de start van mijn reis niet zo lekker geslapen heb als in het hutje in Jaw Jaw. Met het idee dat we nog dagen hadden willen blijven, beginnen we weer aan de lange reis terug naar ‘de stad’!

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